As it was our second time visiting Brazil and we had already seen Rio de Janeiro, Búzios, Arraial do Cabo, Iguazu and São Paulo, we started looking around to see where we could spend a week, specifically during Christmas, not too far from Rio and without needing to fly, as flights were quite expensive during the holiday season.

We were looking for the perfect Christmas destination for our family – me, my husband, my 3 years old daughter Thea and my parents, which had to be safe and have good beaches. After many hours of research, I came to the same conclusion: Ilha Grande was the place. One of its most charming features is that it’s a car-free zone. All the cobbled streets and dirt tracks are completely pedestrianized. On top of that, it’s a hiking paradise with amazing beaches. What more could I ask for?

Important things that I took into account:

1. Ilha Grande has several great restaurants, especially around Vila do Abraão, serving fresh seafood, Brazilian specialties, and casual meals.

2. The best time to visit is during the dry season from May to September, when trails are less muddy, the sun is out, and the beaches are at their best; December can be beautiful too, but rain is more frequent (we did not mind it) and neither did our daughter.

3. For clothing, bring lightweight, breathable clothes, hiking shoes for the trails, swimwear, a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of mosquito repellent.

4. Traveling with kids is generally manageable as the island is safe and car-free, beaches like Praia do Canto are calm and accessible, and many accommodations are family-friendly, though longer hikes like Lopes Mendes are best for older children or those used to walking.

With that in mind, I found an accommodation that I really liked and booked directly with them by email – Aratinga Inn (which has a 9.4 score on Booking). On top of that, they offered a private transfer to and from Rio de Janeiro (directly from our hotel in Copacabana), which we accepted. The price was 550 BRL (approx. €90) for two people, plus the fast boat, which we paid separately (150 BRL per person, return). This had to be paid in cash, directly to the driver.

The price of the accommodation in December 2024, for a week over Christmas, was 6,550 BRL (approx. €1,070), with the possibility of a 5% discount if paid in cash. However, I found withdrawing cash from ATMs in Brazil quite complicated, with high fees, so we decided to pay by card. We stayed in the deluxe double chalet “Heliconia,” and children under 5 stay free of charge. Also, keep in mind that there are no banks or ATMs on Ilha Grande.

The price included accommodation, breakfast, and afternoon tea with homemade cookies (which we looked forward to every day).

TRANSPORT (from and to Rio de Janeiro)

On the morning of the 22nd of December, the driver was already waiting for us outside and helped us with the luggage. He was very punctual, and the car was clean. He brought a car seat for Thea, which was much appreciated and honestly a relief – always check in advance whether private transfers include car seats when traveling with toddlers in Brazil.

At 12 pm, after a 3-hour ride, we arrived at Praia de Conceição de Jacareí, from where we took the fast boat to Abraão, the main port of Ilha Grande.

Twenty-five minutes later, we were there… on an island with no cars. Brilliant. There are many people who can help with luggage, especially since only the main street is paved (and even that in a rather rough condition), and most accommodations are slightly uphill, just like ours. So once we disembarked, we accepted the help offered by the porters pulling carriages and paid them accordingly. And let me tell you, this is not an easy job as they carry a lot of weight.

From the main port to the accommodation, it’s about a 7-minute walk.

ACCOMMODATION – ARATINGA INN

The chalet we received was lovely and exactly how I had pictured it. It had a small porch, and the room was equipped with everything we needed. The size is decent and quite basic, but it felt very comfortable (including the mattress). The people who work there are beyond lovely and made us feel like we were in the right place. The breakfast is also good, and the afternoon cookies were very much appreciated.

Traveling with a toddler here was easy – the car-free environment means no stress about traffic, and our daughter had complete freedom to walk around. The staff were wonderful with her, and children under 5 stay free of charge.

One thing I do need to emphasize, though: bring plenty of mosquito repellent.

All in all, I would choose this accommodation again. Even if there are cheaper options, this one gave us the holiday feeling we were looking for and, more than that, the precious comfort of spending Christmas in the right place.

ACTIVITIES

There are many things you can do on the island, and most of them are related to either water activities or hiking. As we were traveling with my parents, we took the opportunity to do two hikes, leaving our daughter with them.

As a family, we did a boat tour.

HIKINGS

Cachoeira da Feiticeira

We started with an easy hike (for us) to Cachoeira da Feiticeira, which is also the most visited waterfall on Ilha Grande. The route is medium-length, with climbs and descents through the forest, and includes sections of dense vegetation. It takes around 2 hours to get there, and once you reach the waterfall, you need to keep walking for another 15 minutes to get to Feiticeira Beach.

Unfortunately, bathing in the waterfall was not that appealing, as the rocks were quite slippery and the water too cold. But the view was nice, and the hike itself was definitely worth it. On the way back, we took a water taxi from Feiticeira Beach and fully relaxed, enjoying the views of the island from the boat.

2. Lopes Mendes Beach

This one was pretty special and is supposed to be the most rewarding hike. Starting from Vila do Abraão, the trail is about 8.5 km long and promises to take you to one of the most beautiful beaches: Lopes Mendes.

Even though the trail is very popular, you will barely meet anyone along the way. It begins in Vila do Abraão, leading through dense jungle, then continues past Palmas Beach and Pouso Beach before reaching Lopes Mendes. You’ll go up and down through the jungle, eventually reaching stunning beaches. From the last one, you still need to walk another 20–30 minutes over hilly terrain (which was very muddy for us) to finally reach Lopes Mendes.

Lopes Mendes Beach is truly paradisiacal: soft sand, blue water… absolutely worth it. You’ll find some shade if you want to rest, and there are also a few people selling water, beer, and juices.

On the way back, you’ll need to hike again the same hilly, muddy section for 20–30 minutes. Once you reach Pouso Beach again, you’ll find plenty of water taxis.

But before heading back, make sure to stop for lunch at Marola Restaurant. I can honestly say that, at that moment, eating there after the hike became one of my core memories.

BOAT TOUR

Once you reach the Main Street in Vila do Abraão, you’ll find plenty of agencies selling boat tours, hiking trips, and diving packages. We chose the Half Island tour and, on December 25th, went to the main port to board the boat. The stops:

• Lagoa Azul (Blue Lagoon): A natural aquarium with calm, crystal-clear waters. This was nice, but the weather was not very nice, as it was not sunny so we could not really see that blue water. More than that, it’s very crowded as many boats are coming… so I have mixed feelings.
• Lagoa Verde (Green Lagoon): Known for its vibrant green tones and serene waters, another snorkeling paradise. Same here, I am not a big fan of snorkeling and with a 3 years old it was even more complicated to do it, so a bit of a useless stop for us…
• Praia do Amor (Love Beach): A small, charming beach that’s great for photos and a quick dip. This stop was nice, the sun came out and it was our favorite stop, even if it was also crowded.

Bout tour with a toddler – our honest verdict:

The half-island boat tour is not ideal for very young children. The fast boat is noisy, cold, and windy, and most stops are snorkeling-focused. Thea was uncomfortable for most of the ride. If you’re traveling with a toddler, skip the boat tour and spend that time at Praia do Canto instead as she was infinitely happier there.

BEACHES

Ilha Grande is home to many stunning beaches, but most are not easily accessible, as around 62% of the island is covered by the Atlantic Rainforest. Since 2019, Ilha Grande has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, highlighting its ecological and cultural significance.

One of the island’s greatest strengths is that it has largely avoided large-scale hotel development and other commercial amenities. This has allowed Ilha Grande to preserve its pristine coastline, giving visitors some of Brazil’s most natural and beautiful beaches. Among the most unforgettable are Palmas Cove, Dois Rios, and Aventura Beach, with Lopes Mendes often ranking at the very top of any list of Brazil’s most incredible beaches.

There are plenty of beaches to choose from, but our personal favorites, where we spent most of our time, were Praia do Canto, the main beach of Vila do Abraão, and the nearby Praia da Júlia. Even on rainy days, we enjoyed staying at the beach.

Praia do Canto – this became Thea’s favorite spot on the island with calm water, soft sand, and restaurants nearby meant we could relax while she played for hours. It’s the perfect toddler beach.

WILDLIFE

Let’s put it like this: I’ve read everything about the wildlife on the island AFTER the hikes… thankfully, or else I might never have gone on the trails! :))

Land animals. The island is home to a surprising variety of mammals and reptiles:

• Capuchin monkeys – intelligent and curious, often seen near trails
• Howler monkeys – more often heard than seen, known for their deep calls
• Sloths
• Coatis
• Agoutis & armadillos 
• Non-venomous snakes
• BOA snake

Birdlife: Ilha Grande hosts hundreds of bird species typical of the Atlantic Forest, including:

• Toucans
• Parrots and parakeets
• Hummingbirds
• Herons

Marine Life: The surrounding ocean is just as vibrant:

• Tropical fish in shallow reefs
• Sea turtles
• Rays and small sharks
• Occasional dolphins offshore

CONCLUSION

In the end, Ilha Grande turned out to be exactly what we were looking for or maybe even more. A place where time slows down, where there are no cars, no noise, and no pressure to do anything other than enjoy nature at its purest. From jungle hikes and hidden waterfalls to long beach days and simple but memorable meals, every moment felt authentic and unspoiled.

It’s not a luxury destination in the traditional sense, and that’s precisely its charm. You trade convenience for raw beauty, and in return you get something far more valuable: a true escape. Whether you’re hiking through the Atlantic rainforest, discovering secluded beaches, or just sitting by the sea with a fresh juice in hand, Ilha Grande has a way of making you disconnect from the world.

Traveling with a toddler here is genuinely easy – the car-free environment, calm beaches, and slow pace make it one of the most family-friendly destinations we’ve visited in Brazil.

Would I go back? Absolutely. And next time, I’d stay even longer.