When people heard we were taking our 3-year-old to the Atacama Desert, most of them thought we were crazy. Extreme altitude, freezing nights, hot days. But honestly? It was one of our best family trips yet. Here’s everything you need to know to make it work with kids.

Atacama Desert is a very interesting place to visit, often called the driest non-polar desert in the world, located in Chile. Some weather stations here have never recorded rainfall. It’s a place of extremes with intense sunlight during the day, freezing temperatures at night, and altitudes that quite literally take your breath away.

Best time to visit (Spring/Fall) is from September to November and March to May offering pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds compared to summer.

The warmest weather (Summer) is from December to February when is also peak season with warmer days (25-30∘C), which is ideal to see flamingos at the salt flats. We went there at the end of January, when the weather during the day was quite hot and the afternoons were very windy.

TRIP OVERVIEW

We have spent a total of 5 days in the Atacama Desert, booking a hotel in San Pedro de Atacama.

There are many things that you can do so it took me quite some time to find the right activities for our family, taking into account that some of them are not suitable for toddlers. Also, I had to see how I can fit all my plans in 5 days and which places were or were not of interest.

In the end our choices were: Chaxa Lagoon, Cactus Valley, Moon Valley, Astronomical Tour, Hidden Lagoons of Baltinache, Vallecito El Tatio Geysers, Puritama Hot Springs. We had almost everything booked through nomades.com.

On top of that, you can also visit: Red Rocks and Altiplanic Lagoons, Rainbow Valley, Salar de Talar, Uyuni Salt Flat (which requires at least 3 days).

Which Activities Are Suitable for Toddlers?

• Astronomical Tour – minimum age: 2 years old → We skipped this with Thea – late night + freezing cold = not worth it for under 5 years old
• Hidden Lagoons of Baltinache – minimum age: 3 years old → We did this one as a family and it was manageable
• Moon Valley: minimum age: 6 years old
• Salt Flats Route: minimum age: 9 years old
• El Tatio Geysers: minimum age: 8 years old → We left Thea at the hotel for this one – 4AM departure, -6°C, 4300m altitude is simply too much for a toddler
• Puritama Hot Springs: no age required → Perfect for toddlers – warm water, calm environment, Thea absolutely loved it
• Laguna Chaxa → Great for toddlers – open air (but quite hot), easy walking, flamingos everywhere. Thea was mesmerized

But I truly do not recommend to take a toddler to the astrophotography tour (it’s late and cold), to the Moon Valley (a lot of walking, even on the edge of a sand dune) and to the Tatio Geysers (too early, too cold, too dangerous).

TRANSPORTATION

Coming from Santiago de Chile, we had a direct flight with LATAM Airlines, early in the morning, landing in Calama El Loa Airport. Calama is the connection airport with San Pedro de Atacama, just one hour away.

The flight takes around 2h. From the airport we had a shared van that waited for us and transferred us to San Pedro de Atacama, booked through nomades.com. Roundtrip price was around 26€ /pp. The same company picked us up for departure and made us arrive at time, even when I screwed up communicating the right departure time to them and I thought we will miss our flight.

Also, in the village, there are many agencies that offer tours, so if you don’t feel like booking online, you can check all the tours being offered along the Main Street.

We considered renting a car and doing all the trips on our own, which would have been a more budget-friendly option, but in the end, we chose guided tours and only having a rented car for 24h. Having a guide added valuable context to the places we visited and made the overall experience great. It also worked better for our situation, as we took turns joining the excursions, while some of us went on a tour, the others stayed back at the hotel with our daughter when she couldn’t participate.

ACCOMMODATION

Our base for exploring Atacama desert was San Pedro, located at 2,400 meters above sea level. Some would say to get acclimatized before coming but for us there was no need. We felt completely fine from the first day.

We have booked a charming hotel in the village at Hotel Jardin Atacama, paying 570€/4 nights with buffet breakfast included. Book it as early as possible as it will be sold out easily, especially during high season.

One of the highlights was the inner courtyard and pool area, surrounded by greenery, it’s a quiet oasis where you can relax during the hotter hours of the day. The contrast between the dry desert outside and this lush space inside the hotel made it even more special. The breakfast was home made and very good. It is located in the center of the village, walking distance from all the stores and the restaurants, so this was very convenient for us.

DAY 1 – Arrival, Village & Sunset

After landing and transferring to San Pedro de Atacama, we went for lunch and then unpacked. Not wanting to waste any time, we rented a car that afternoon (for 24h) with the help of our accommodation, conveniently from their neighbors, for about €110 per day for a 7-seater.

We then headed to Mirador Likan-Antay for sunset which is located 10 minutes drive from the village. The landscape felt almost unreal, like stepping onto Mars. Since arriving we couldn’t stop saying wow… the desert really does feel like another planet. It was incredibly beautiful, though very windy.

DAY 2 – Laguna Chaxa, Valle de Los Cactus & Astro Tour

As we still had the car rented until late afternoon, we went on a trip on our own to Laguna Chaxa, with the full family. Laguna Chaxa is a perfect place to spot the tall Andean Flamingos, the peachy Chilean Flamingo, and the elegant James’s Flamingo. Entrance fee is 15€/adult. Kids go in for free and you can buy the tickets at the entrance.

The lagoon is located 50 minutes drive from San Pedro and driving there is really easy and more than enjoyable. On our way we could see the entrance at the ALMA Observatory, which is one of the most powerful and advanced astronomical observatories in the world and also Lascar Volcano, which is the most active volcano in the area.

You drive to the visitor center, and from there you start exploring on foot. Once you arrive, make sure to bring a hat and sunscreen, as the salt flats can get very hot. I’d recommend visiting in the morning for more comfortable temperatures. The flamingos will be spotted everywhere, so I felt like a child on Christmas Day seeing them.

Then we hit the road again and drove for another hour to find Valle de los Cactus, known for the very old cactuses – around 400-600 years old. Due to low (or no) precipitation, these cactuses are growing 1cm/ year and many of them are very tall.

Back in the village for lunch and some shopping. The area is known for the alpaca wool, which can be found in every shop and has an amazing price.

In the evening, we joined an Astronomical Tour, one of the absolute highlights of the Atacama region. The desert’s skies are incredibly clear, with almost no light pollution. Our tour picked us up from the hotel, and after a short 20-minute drive, we arrived at the observation site.

A guide showed us planets like Jupiter, Saturn, Mars, and Venus, as well as the Milky Way, star clusters, and nebulae through specialized telescopes.

Afterward, we had the chance to take a photo under the Milky Way using an astro-modified camera, while enjoying a glass of wine by the campfire. The nights are very cold, but the warmth of the fire and the wine helps :). This tour is truly a must-do activity and quickly became one of my core memories from the trip.

DAY 3 – Lagunas Escondidas & Vallecito (Magic Bus)

The 3rd day started with spending the morning at the pool, as we had a tour booked for the afternoon. After lunch, we set off on a scenic one-hour drive toward the Lagunas Escondidas of Baltinache, a group of 7 salt lagoons with an extraordinary blue color, linked by an easy trail. Every year these lagoons have less and less water and the locals think they will dry off in couple of years :(.

Important for parents: keep toddlers away from the salt formations because the salt contains toxic chemicals. Thea needed constant supervision here, but it was manageable.

The Baltinache lagoons are important for studying extreme environments on Earth (similar with Mars-like conditions).

From the lagoons, the tour took us to Vallecito to see the moon landscapes and the abandoned magic bus of San Pedro de Atacama. This area sits at around 2450–2600 meters altitude and is known for its lunar landscapes, salt formations, and total freedom to explore. The Magic Bus is Vallecito’s most iconic feature and one of the most photographed spots in the desert. Originally was used to transport workers to nearby salt mines and was abandoned when mining operations stopped.

And now, my favorite part of these tours… the little snacks prepared just for us, and the toasts we shared with unfamiliar faces that somehow felt instantly warm and friendly. All of it made even more special by the guides, who did an incredible job explaining everything and patiently answering every question we had. Because traveling is not only about the places, but also about the people you meet on the way.

DAY 4 – Geysers del Tatio & Valle de la Luna

On the 4th day we had an early morning departure (4AM) to Geysers del Tatio, heading into the Altiplano across the Andes. After about 1.5 hours, we have arrived at El Tatio Geysers, a unique geothermal field with more than 80 active geysers at 4300m and the highest geothermal field on Earth. It is recommended, because of the altitude, to leave this trip to one of the last days in Atacama.

We left Thea at the hotel with my parents for this one. The 4AM departure, -6°C temperatures and 4,300m altitude made it unsuitable for a toddler. If you’re traveling without extra adults, you can take turns – one morning can go a parent and the other one another parent; this was our plan before we found out that the grandparents will join us.

When you arrive at 6AM, in the summer, the temperature is around -6°C, so make sure you have multiple layers as it will get warmer once the sun is fully out. The geysers at El Tatio are similar to those found in places like Yellowstone and the water temperatures can reach 85–90°C at the surface (lower than 100°C due to high altitude).

After exploring the geysers, the experience ended on a high note with breakfast right there at the El Tatio Geyser Field. At over 4300 meters, the guides prepared a fresh omelette and handmade guacamole on the spot, something that felt almost surreal in such a remote setting. Warm food, hot drinks, and rising steam in the background made it an unforgettable moment.

After breakfast, the tour continued with a stop at Mirador Vado Putana where we could observe the vicuñas, flamingos, ducks and different type of birdies.

Last stop was at the Highland Community of Machuca village, where the sun was already shining and the temperature increased by 15°C minimum. This is a village located at 4000m, with 20 houses and a church. It is a chance to experience authentic altiplano culture and local gastronomy like anticuchos (grilled llama or alpaca meat). We have tried it and the taste was good.

We have returned to San Pedro for lunch and a quick nap, as we had the Valle de la Luna scheduled for the afternoon.

Our Valle de la Luna tour was memorable. We made stops at Las Tres Marías, the canyon, and the Amphitheater Dune, hiking a bit and soaking in the unique desert vibes. Later, we paused for some pisco sours and snacks, chatting and laughing with the group. The day ended perfectly at Mirador de Ckari, watching the sunset over the valley. No wonder they test all the robots here before sending them to Mars.

While some of us explored Valle de la Luna, the others looked for activities suitable for a child. They ended up renting bikes and going for a ride through the desert and had an amazing time!

DAY 5 – Termas de Puritama & Departure

Last day in the Atacama Desert, and our objective was clear: visiting the Termas de Puritama. We booked our shuttle on the same website and purchased the entrance tickets separately (make sure to book them a few days in advance, especially in the summer). The water temperature ranged from 25 to 40°C, depending on which of the eight hot springs you were in. We spent four hours there and absolutely loved it. The hot springs are located in a canyon, at 3,500 meters above sea level.

TOTAL COST (without food and personal spendings)

• Transportation to and from the airport = 26€
• Accommodation = 285€
• Tours = 150€
• Entrance fees = 87€
• Rented car = 25€

Total/pp = 573€

TIPS

• Split excursions between parents when tours aren’t toddler-friendly
• Renting a car provides flexibility for timing and side stops. Booking tours gives you a better insight in the history and provides some very welcome-snacks. Bonus: on tours, you get to meet people and hear their stories
• Altitude awareness: Geysers and lagoons are at high altitude, over 4300m
• Desert clothing: layers for cold mornings and warm days
• Stargazing and astro-tours in Atacama are A MUST
• Sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses – even if it’s cold, you can still burn up there. Also, the middle of the day for us was HOT.
• Swimsuit – if you plan some hot springs or there is a pool at your hotel
• There are ATMs in San Pedro, so you will need to withdraw money if you don’t bring enough cash
• Buy that Alpaca Wool clothes that you like (you will thank me later) 🦙

FINAL THOUGHTS: Atacama Desert with kids

Was it crazy to bring a 3-year-old to one of the most extreme environments on Earth? Maybe. But the Atacama Desert surprised us completely as a family destination.

The key is planning around your toddler – not every tour is suitable, and that’s okay. We took turns on the more challenging excursions, kept Thea at the hotel for the early mornings and high altitudes, and focused our family time on the flamingo lagoons, the hot springs, and the hotel pool.

San Pedro de Atacama is safe, walkable, and full of wonder, even for a 3-year-old who can’t yet understand that she’s standing in the driest desert on Earth but somehow knows that the flamingos are absolutely magical and making friends knows no borders.

Would we go back? Without hesitation (hey, we still have the Uyuni flats to explore!). But next time, Thea will be old enough for the geysers.