It has to be the most iconic image of Patagonia: Fitz Roy Mountain, located in Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina. Rising to 3.405 meters, its striking silhouette even appears in the logo of the Patagonia brand.

The idea had always been there, deep in my mind, I just needed to sort out the logistics of the trip.

I couldn’t imagine being in Argentina and not making it down south. In a way, I had tried to push the thought of going to South America aside, especially after having my daughter. I kept telling myself I would wait until she was older. But when the opportunity with the cruise arose, and we decided to disembark in Rio de Janeiro, Argentina immediately came to mind. And honestly, coming to Argentina without visiting Patagonia was something I simply couldn’t envision.

So this being said, decided to give El Chalten a shot and do the most famous hike: Laguna de los Tres (or Fitz Roy).

TRIP OVERVIEW

We spent a total of six nights in Patagonia, split between El Calafate and El Chaltén, in January which falls in the middle of summer, being the peak season for visiting. Our itinerary was:

• 2 nights in El Calafate to see Perito Moreno
• 2 nights in El Chalten to do the Fitz Roy trekking
• 1 night in El Calafate, before heading to Puerto Natales, Chile

So we reserved 2 nights in El Chalten and had the following plan:

• Day 1 – arrival to El Chalten from El Calafate
• Day 2 – Laguna de los Tres hike (this is what we came for!!!)
• Day 3 – departure from El Calafate to El Chalten

TRANSPORTATION

We traveled by bus from El Calafate to El Chaltén, which took about 2  hours and 40 minutes. The buses were very comfortable, and most of them were double-deckers (having an upper floor). We booked our tickets in advance through our accommodation in El Calafate, paying 64€ per person for a round trip. Children pay the full fare as well, since they occupy a seat. There are multiple bus companies operating the route and I don’t think there is much difference between them. We chose our company mainly based on departure time rather than the brand name.

The bus ride from El Chaltén to El Calafate passes through Patagonia’s steppe and Andean foothills, so while it’s mostly open plains, you can still see wildlife from the window like guanacos (llamas cousins) or Patagonian hares.

ACCOMMODATION

Even though it may seem like there are many options at first glance on Booking, I would say that accommodation in El Chaltén is actually quite limited, so it’s best to book in advance.

You can walk from one end of town to the other in about 25 minutes. We chose accommodation at the edge of the village, right by the trailhead to Laguna de los Tres, since that was our main purpose for visiting. As my parents decided to join our trip later, we couldn’t find rooms available for them at the same place. They ended up staying somewhere closer to the middle of the village, not far from us, though it was a bit more expensive. I think their accommodation looked nicer, but in the end it comes down to personal taste and needs.

• Our accommodation – Hosteria Don Atilio – 221€ with breakfast included and our daughter had free stay
• Their accommodation – Fitz Roy Hostería de Montaña  – 252€ with breakfast included

FITZ-ROY HIKE – LAGUNA DE LOS TRES

We all know that iconic image of Mount Fitz Roy, right? That’s exactly why we came here.

Well… things don’t always go as planned. Even though we visited during what’s considered the best season for this hike, the weather here is famously unpredictable. And if you do what we did (basically allowing just one day, with no buffer, for the main highlight) you might not end up getting the view you came for.

But… we still got to do the most rewarding, challenging, and beautiful hike of my life.

We started really early (at 6:45am we were already at the entrance of the National Park) in order to avoid the tourist tax of 30€ (45.000 ARS) that was introduced at the end of 2024. And it was perfect, as there were no rangers such early in the morning.

Distance: 20 km round trip, high difficulty. The last kilometer is known to be especially tough.

We started the hike, and the first 2 km were quite steep, which made me wonder if I’d be able to finish the hike if it continued like that. Fortunately, the terrain soon became straight, and for a while it actually felt more like a walk in the park. Along the way, we even caught views of the Río Blanco Glacier.

The weather was still good…slightly cloudy, but no rain yet. After about 8 km, we reached Campamento Poincenot, a popular campsite where many hikers spend the night to catch sunset and sunrise over Mount Fitz Roy. Some even start hiking at midnight to reach Laguna de los Tres in time for sunrise.

As I mentioned, the final kilometer is the most challenging: around 400 meters of elevation gain over a steep, rocky path that can get quite slippery. And of course, that’s exactly when the rain started… and didn’t stop. And no, it’s not 1km, it’s actually over one hour of walking uphill.

We took a short break (staying under what you could call a tree), hoping it would pass, but our food was already wet in our backpacks (so we could not eat it), and the rain only got heavier.

In the end, we did make it to Laguna de los Tres, but in terrible weather, with very low visibility. We snapped three quick photos and immediately turned back. We were also “lucky” enough to experience 4 hours of non stop pouring rain on the way back :). At the end, after 11 hours, we were soaking wet, but happy and very hungry.

We headed directly to B Fitz Resto in El Chalten and had a great lunch (I truly recommend the place) – the menu had a cost of around 20€.

TOTAL COST

TIPS (with kids)

Bring help or don’t bring the kids! These hikes are not for small kids :))

Now, some tips for people without kids… or for those who have a little extra help (wink, wink):

• Wear appropriate footwear!!!
• Start early – weather can change quickly, even in summer
• Bring snacks, water, and sun protection – some trails are exposed
• Pack “rain-safe” food: Learn from experience – anything not well sealed will get wet eventually
• Have a buffer day – the next day, when we had to leave… the sun was out and the weather was amazing
• Enjoy the hike, not just the destination
• Use kid carriers for toddlers if you plan to do slightly longer hikes and there is no help

CONCLUSIONS

Would I do it again? Absolutely, without hesitation!!

Patagonia got under my skin in a way few places ever have. It’s raw, wild, and completely indifferent to your schedule or your plans :). We didn’t get the postcard photo at Laguna de los Tres. We got something better … a story. 11 hours of rain, laughter, exhaustion, and a warm meal waiting at the end together with my cousin and my husband. We got the kind of travel memory that doesn’t fade.

If you’re reading this and wondering whether to go: go. Book the buffer day (seriously, we cannot stress this enough). Wear waterproof boots. Pack your snacks in waterproof bags. And if you’re traveling with little ones, bring help or adjust your ambitions, and embrace the chaos. Because in the end, the chaos is the adventure.